INDEPENDENT ADVENTURE

BALI – KOMODO – BAJAWA – KELIMUTU – MBAY – RIUNG

This is a record of our trip from Bali to Bajawa – Flores. I recorded this trip as a very special one as I did the trip on my free time of my holidays with Cen Cen. Not as my previous trips where I must took full responsibility on the convenience of the tourists who joining the tours, on this trip I just managed the trip for my own and my mate’s conveniences. We did the trip in our freedom…….

DOTS OF PEARLS FROM THE AIR

Not like many other previous trips those tied up with my strict and tight schedule of tourists traveling to Flores Island, last July 2008 I got a special moment to visit to Bajawa by my own time and program. On a free trip from Bali to Flores with my mate, she and I only made short discussion the decided what or where to go; just followed the nose and mind.

Flight over from Bali to Labuan Bajo on a moderate height of Indonesia Air Transport an airline dedicated for tourism whose area manager has high concentration and attention for Flores Tourism Development. Cen Cen and I joined this airline which most passengers are European tourists. As its way of service, this airline flied over the small islands on very low height to show the real beauty of the islands. Sometimes the tourist applaud and screaming of wondering the islands below seen very near from the plane. It looked that the pilot had a long maneuvers with attentions of showing the island and let the tourists to wonder and wonder. Those are barren, dry and rocky islands with some savannahs, but the beaches are wonderful… Those are like dots of pearls on the tropical blue ocean.

SAIL TO RINCA

Touching down at Labuan Bajo airport. Cen Cen and I took a car (not a taxi, since there are no modern taxi such as in Bali, Surabaya or Jakarta) it is a public transportation that is freely roaming the town; which the local says oto bemo. Transferring us the peer where Sojourn Cruises and all the Crews are waiting for us for a sail to Rinca. Got on the boat and we were served with welcome drinks and plain smiles of the crews; most of them are familiar with me on my previous trips and some of them are my old friends who worked with me on Sojourn Cruise while the cruise still operated in Bali and Lembongan Island. Suherman who I always call Bas Herman is the senior one on the boat. They treated us like very important persons on this boat.

After having got a shower we are sitting together on the sun deck enjoying the beer Bintang and peanuts while the boat sail westward on its silence and only depends on the winds cruise forward the blue ocean. After two hours sailings then the Rinca island was nearer and Bas Herman instructed all the deck crew to roll over the banner on masts. And he started the engines to maneuver for good position of parking.

RINCA ISLAND

We got off the boat and on the ranger house we got stick with one upper side has a Y shape. On my previous trips, so many tourist wonders and questioning this stick with Y shape, why we use that stick while entering the national park. Even Cen Cen asked me why should use that. Yes she is our operation staff of the Atmosfer Indonesia Tours behind the bureau and not much goes to the real fields. I myself do not know why when somebody who holding the stick of Y shape, Komodo dragon will never attack or come nearer. I just remember when I was child on my village Mangulewa and Zeu near So’a and Wae Pana hot spring, some people use the stick with Y shape to catch the reptiles of the same family but smaller named ghora or sebe. Such stick is also used for catching the snakes. I understand that Komodo has its imagination of Y shape stick is the most effective instrument to make them give up.

Cen Cen was wondering but fear to see the gigantic mammal of the last dragon in the world. Some Komodo looked very old in age and the skin looked very dark, big in size and move very slowly. It looked the komodos are on sun bathing under the very soft sun before setting down. Some times Cen Cen wondered to the colourful birds, wild buffaloes and deer because she never seen it before in Jakarta.

When the sun set Bas Herman advised us to walk back to get in the boat. I understand what he mean. That will be the perfect time for us to see the sun set from the boat on the blue ocean. And that is the regular schedule of tour for many other visitor we usually do. Get on board, the boat move slowly off shore. The waiter understands very well that the short trekking has made Cen Cen and me thirsty a lot. A bottle of beer brought out from the refrigerator and a pack of cakes to accompany the green bottle.

It was an unforgettable moment to remember a sun golden sunset seeing from the boat off shore of Rinca island. Then we felt like being exiled out of the world into a deep silent except the wishper of the winds and the sound of screens rounding the masts. Sometimes the voices of radio monitors from the harbor controlling our sails.

Although the lights is on in every cabins and salons down there. Cen Cen and I preferred to lay down on the lazy bed on the sun deck enjoying the silence of open deck with nice atmosphere. But then the weather on the sea is deeply cool and we rushed to take bath because the dinner will be served soon.

Dinner is served on the dinning space and it looked so special. Fresh barbeque of barracuda served in very special way of Sojourn Cruise with a bottle of wine. But since there are most of my friends on the boat and I know they are used to drink any kinds of liquor we invite them to have dinner together. Cheers of red wine…. A wonderful night although Cen Cen did not have the delicate of wine. Yes I understand she has her own commitment not to touch wine… she only accompany me when I like to have drinks. But she knows that I never drank, just for fun.

Late at night we move to every cabin and spend a wonderful night with silence.

Morning is a time full of thanks when I got up stepped up the stair and stand on the sun deck and jump down with simple mask for a good snorkeling. Wonderful to seen the coral reefs and the colorful tropical fishes on crystal clear water in the morning. It also made me feel deeply how fresh my body in the water. Wow,…an unforgettable moment. So far I just stood to accompany my customers and let them to enjoy. Cen Cen was sitting there on the boat to watch my actions and holding a cup of coffee. I know she enjoyed being there on an unimagined spot.

I got up to the boat and have a hot cup of blend coffee and milk and baked bread with chocolate. Stared down to the sea and wow, wonderful… colorful tropical fishes around the boat… They know that there is a good man on the boat who will throw food remnants down for them.. And yes I was thinking so and make crumbs of the bread. My aim was to invite so many fishes nearer those I might wonder to their unique colours. Deep in there I still can stare and view the colorful coral reefs.

PINK BEACH

Breakfast on the boat after having deep in the sea is wonderful. I could ate everything and because snorkeling made me hungry earlier in the morning. The boat cruise over to Komodo Island. Knowing that the get off to the land will only see the same Komodo dragons, we then continue cruised and stop on the Pink Beach or Pantai Merah. We reach the pink beach by a speed boat. Wow… the place we found nowhere… It is a wonder a long beach with pink sandy… a perfect place for relax… All the crews got off and join us for a BBQ on this nice pink beach. I did not want to lose the moment for snorkel on this nice paradise. I started to catch the moment, jumped in to see the wonderful coral reefs.

We never imagine before, Putu one of the crew is a talented person, sitting on the corner, playing guitar and sung some songs dedicated for Cen Cen and me. While some were busy to arrange the BBQ. My appetite was growing while the wind brought the delicious fume of baked tuna. Lunch is the most wonder moment…Some bottles of beer were my companion….besides the people around me.

KALONG ISLAND

Late in the afternoon we reached to Kalong Island, an island named so to describe the existence of flying foxes occupied the whole island. All the vegetation and branches of trees are dark of the foxes nestling and waiting for the perfect moment at night for them to fly out and explore for living. The word of Kalong is a local call for Fox or Bat Anchoring near Kalong island. Bas Herman did not advise too much to me because he knows that I have known it. Suddenly, the crews shouting out and we saw thousand of foxes flying out from the nest… wow,… we could not count how many are they. But after that there was only a deep calamity and all the foxes back to the nest.. We will spend the night on the boat.

Cen Cen and I lied down on the lazy chair of the boat with bottles of beer on my side. This is a last night of our sailing. Saw the foxes was flying out. We supposed that that is the time for them all to come out. The sky looked dark because of the foxes flying and we just wondered in our silence watching them.

Dinner provided by my friends is the most delicious one. Dinner on the boat away from all life problems and routines felt like the tastiest one. Wine made me forget everything; not to escape from my real life but it just a slice of time to pamper myself and to let if free from daily burdens. I know it recharged the new spirits for me when back to daily routines. I need to do so once years for my own convenience although some times ago I did it on my sail of live on board by Moggy Cruises from Bali to Nusa Penida and Lembongan just a jump out of Bali.

LABUAN BAJO TO BAJAWA

Early in the morning we sailed back to Labuan Bajo and there a private car has waited on the harbor from where we started to drive up through the mountain ranges, passing through the tropical forests and so seldom met the cars or trucks. It is really a different world from other part of Indonesia. Our driver Nikolaus has good and reputable experiences in driving through the area. He have worked with us for 5 years exploring Flores. Not much changes, some roads are good paved but some needs attention and adventurous spirits.

Nevertheless, we intended to reach Bajawa without staying overnight anywhere. And Nikolaus said he is able to drive 8 hours without stop. Ok we drive through. It was a wonderful trip passing through the forests and rarely found out the small villages, one or two houses on the road sides in Ruteng to Kisol and Waerana.

It was dark entering Aimere, the palace known for a local wine productions. I intended to make a short stop just to show it to Cen Cen, but the time was not quiet perfect to see it then we cancel to stop over there. We proceed the trip to drive up through the mountain range. Our car move slowly as the condition of the road was really adventurous and Nikolaus drove very carefully up and up.

The weather came cooler and cooler in accordance with the positions we reached up. Cen Cen and I felt need jacket and she took out jackets of mine and hers. We than realized that we have entered the terminal Watu Jaji soon after passed over the lust bamboo forest behind the village of Bo Wejo.

Without asking me, Nikolaus drove through passed the bus terminal to Mangulewa my lovely village. He known that this is my personal trip that I would top at my youngest sister Irma’s house in the village of Mangulewa; while I come with tourist the bus use to turned left before the terminal to the town of Bajawa and stop at the hotel.

From the bus terminal in Watu Jaji Nikolaus needs 20 minutes drive to Mangulewa a good velocity on a good road of the city. The weather came cooler and I may say the coolest one in Flores island. I myself almost could not help with this weather although I had spent half of my life there. But the family members come at night to welcome Cen Cen and me. Their warm welcome made me forget the real weather. Sitting at my sister’s house and as the local tradition Cen Cen and I must be welcomed in cultural way in eating together with family members prior to everything. So some of my brother and sisters came and accompany us to pass the night and have a cultural dinner together; drinking tuak (a kind of local drink of palm milk) is a special kind of drink in such gathering and it made the body warm.

BAJAWA – ENDE & KELIMUTU

We spent two days relaxed on my sister’s house. Cen Cen and I then decided to have a trip eastward to Ende and targeting to reach up to Kelimutu. For this trip we discussed to use a motor bike to be easier and free. Early in the morning we drove in tandem and go east. We made some stops in Aegela for viewing nice landscape down to Mbay. Stop then made in Nangaroro for refueling and also for snap shoot of nice panorama. The next stop was made in Panggajawa near to Nangapanda. Besides good pictures and panorama, beach of the blue stones is one of our targets. The stones collectors began to act. We stopped there for some times and bought four young coconuts fro the local people Rp 5000 for each. Sitting under the coconut trees on the beach with soft ocean winds was nice combined of rest with young coconut for a good drink and the flesh of the young coconut to eat after having a long driving.

Proceed the trip to Ende with nice and spectacular panorama along the road. The road from Nangaroro to Ende mostly on the beach that presenting wonderful views. On the right of road’ side it is a drop off to the deep sea and far out to South we can see clearly the island. It is Pulau Ende in a long sword shape. Some house on small villages of most Moslems settled along the beach.

Just around 2 kms after entering the city gate we stopped at the house of Soekarno-the first Indonesia’s President than has been a museum. Mr. Soekarno has lived in this simple house during the time of Indonesian movement to gain the freedom. He was exiled by the Dutch to this place. We saw all the goods used by Mr. Soekarno during his life in Ende. Then we proceed to the main city of Ende and stop in Jalan Sudirman to stop for lunch in a warung. Spend Rp 15.000 for a lunch of both o us. Ende is a nice town with some good hotels but we did not intended to stay on this town, as our target is to climb up to Kelimutu to see the three colour lakes. The nice place to stay is Watuneso at Wisma Santo Fransiskus an accommodation managed by Catholic nuns. This accommodation is one of the best on the area with good standard facilities for tourists.

After refueling our vehicle, we then started to drive and left for Watuneso. The journey was amazing. The panorama was wonderful. Sometime we stopped just to catch the view-a unique feature that Cen Cen and I never got anywhere on our story of traveling in Indonesia.

We finally reached to Watuneso and check in to Wisma Fransiskus. The weather is clouded and very cool. The place with more or less same weather with Mangulewa. It was very cool. No restaurant near there except ordering the foods at the hotel. The meals is nice and clean. Sanitary and cleanness can be trusted in this hotel. And we had lunch there.

At 04.00am I heard my door was knocked and I got up prepared everything and I went out knocked the door of Cen Cen’s room. She has actually ready for trip. We started to drive up early in the morning, passed through Ndua Ria fruit and vegetable market that was still empty which usually be the crowded.

Before reaching Moni there is a turn point with a gate of the main road to Kelimutu we turned right and started up. The weather still very cool and our bike still on light as the road is still very dark. Stared up on the mountain, sometimes we saw the flash of lamp and Cen Cen asked what that was. I realized that there was a truck in advance us. There is a truck regularly serves the tourist from Moni to Kelimutu back to Moni once a day. Upper and higher the weather become cooler and cooler and my fingers and lips got so stiff. It made me imagine of a hot coffee when reaching up to the parking area. Usually I took one glass, but might be two glass of hot coffee would do.

At the parking area there had been 3 chartered cars besides the regular truck parked but no any tourist there except some local women set up their selling. I seek for coffee. Cen Cen and I approached and a man, she spoke in a short English say good morning supposed that Cen Cen is Japanese, never knowing she is originally a Chinese from Jakarta. Cen Cen just nodding and I spoke in local Lio dialect asking coffee. The woman was confused with me and asking me “Ata apa fai kau?” (Where does your wife come from?). With smile for funny question I answered “Ata Sina” (She is Chinese). He nodded for understanding. With trembling hands he dropped coffee in two glasses and just a while my glass was empty and I requested for addition one more glass of hot coffee.

It was still very dark. We walked up to the top point and had to step up the stairs but easy. On darkness we heard the voice of people not far away. We were sure that all the tourists has been gathered on the monuments. We walked up faster to join with them and saw some lights of some people smoking. Then finally we reached and joined them. A man still selling coffee there, I asked one more coffee juts to warm up my body.

Few moment of advent, it was time when the sunrise in the east and began to shine. What a wonder view. All tourists screamed amazing the sun came out like a golden moon with its soft radiance. Some tourists applaud and applaud again. Then we stared down to the craters; and wondered to the three lakes filled with different colour of water. Like other tourists, Cen Cen also amazed to this natural wonder. I know it was the first time for her traveling to east part of the archipelago and see the natural wonders.

The sounds of the winds among the cassuarinas trees along the east and south part of the volcano made the place different from others. It made us felt like traveling to a Jurassic away from the real world.

At 10.00 am the peak point became cloudy and become very cold and some tourists began to get on the tuck and their chartered cars, while some decided for trekking down town to Moni and Wolowaru. Cen Cen and I drove down slowly and enjoying the picturesque panorama. Got lunch at Restaurant Kelimutu that owned by Mr Sutomo a good hearted and honest Chinese. This restaurant is being so popular for its food. Sanitary, delicacy and cleanness is guaranteed too.

TURN BACK TO BAJAWA VIA MBAY AND RIUNG

We then drove back to Ende and then In Aegela we turn right to Mbay. Mbay is known for rice production in Flores. The road from Aegela to Mbay is nice with its picturesque panorama through the plateau of Boa Nio and ended in Roe. We stop in Roe, it is a nice point of stop from where we might view a wide panorama of rice fields which ends up to the North beach and Flores Sea. It is a spectacular view. Mbay is now on building for the capital city of Nagekeo Regency.

Mbay has different weather. It is really hot and dusty. But the road is good. We drove southward to reach to Riung. It became dark when we reach Mbay. But we did not want to stay in Mbay. We continued drove to Riung. Late at night we reach to Pondok SVD a small accommodation managed by Catholic Missionaries (Poland Priests) but the best one in the area with standard service, towel and soap are provided. We begged the staffs to arrange and provide dinner for us since there is no any restaurant in the area. The staffs are kind and helpful and rush to provide dinner for us.

Good sleep after having done a full day motorbike self drive. The room has mosquitoes net and it made me have a good sleep.

05.00 am the next day, Cen Cen has knocked my door to wake me up as 05.30 we would had to get a boat for a sail to the Seventeen Islands or Pulau Tujuh Belas. Sailing early in the morning would be a good moment to view the sea gardens that famous for red rose. Had a sort drive by motorbike and walked through small peer to get on the local wooden motorized boat. We then started to sail. It was clearly seen the colorful coral reefs beneath the boat. I did not want to have a snorkel as the traditional local boat did no provide the snorkeling equipments. But viewing it from the boat was nice enough. We sailed to Rutong that known for its white sandy beach. The beach is nice and away from any pollution, and good for snorkeling too. Pulau Kelelawar (Fox Island) is also the nice one rounded by mangroves and Pak Ahmad who took us also screamed to make the foxes flying out from their nest. Thousand of foxes flew crazily very close with us which made Cen Cen screaming in fear.

BARBEQUE IN RIUNG

Due I asked the way to get fresh fish, Pak Ahmad then invited us to sail for extra to take Bubu a local made cadge to deceive fishes which he have put on deep ocean and to be taken every three days. Some mils away he jumped in to the water and we wait 15 minutes came up with around 30 living fish in the cadge. For fishes we paid Rp 50.000 plus boat Rp 250.000,- Sailed back to the beach of Riung and started to set fire with assistance of the local fishermen. Local people come with bananas they said it would be good companion for fish. Mrs. Sarifah the wife of Pak Ahmad came down to arrange soup of fish. It is local style eating baked fish with burned banana; to be the most wonderful lunch for Cen Cen who never ate in such style. Moke putih (local palm milk) is good when banana detained on throat.

Since Riung is also known for Komodo, Cen Cen eager to see the dragon there. But the dragon in Riung is not as tame as Komodo in Rinca or in Komodo Island; every time when this mammal knowing that they are observed or approached by human being the animal will escape to hide in the forests. So it is very rare to see it.

In the evening day there was a wedding party where the village became noisy with a strong music. We are invited to the party and we went and joining the party. The bride and groom standing in a tend where was decorated with colorful papers coconut leaves and the people came for shaking hands in greetings and put the envelopes into the box available. I have advised Cen Cen to put 2 pieces of Rp 50.000 in to the envelopes as normal. Like many others Cen Cen and I entering the party plaza and greet the happy Bride and Groom and put the envelope into the box. A woman invited us to take seat in the first row. Sitting few minutes and the master of ceremony conducted the party with some speech from the old people then have a “makan pesta” or dinning then followed by acara bebas (free and unscheduled program) where all the people have a dance of many styles from European dance to Jai the most renowned local dance. We left the party at 11.00 pm but this party runs until 05.00 am the next day.

After having breakfast at wisma SVD our hotel where we stayed then started to drive up to Bajawa via Wolomeze, Wangka and Tanah Wolo and Soa to Bajawa. Spectacular panorama and forests with monkeys was one Cen Cen remember. Late In the afternoon we reached Soa and stop at the hot spring. We paid Rp 2,500/person for entrance fee and had a soak in the hot spring to make the body fresh after having a tired driving.

Lunch in a warung near the police office and the market then proceeds to Bajawa. Reached back to my sister’s house in Mangulewa at 05.10 pm after having five days exploring Kelimutu Mbay and Riung.

We spent three more days with my sisters in Mangulewa, then back to Bali for our routines. But our experiences during holiday on this free trip granted something special for me and Cen Cen.

*****

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